The glory, and the colors of nature captured skillfully on cloth characterize the famous Jamawars of Kashmir. "Jama" means robe and "war" is yard. King and nobles bought the woven fabric by the yard, wearing it as a gown or using it as a wrap or shawl. The base of the Jamawar was always wool-with perhaps addition of a little cotton. The brocaded parts were woven in silk or pashmina. Most of the designs were floral, with the kairy or paisley as the predominant motif. The art of weaving a Jamawar was painstaking and intricate one. Several kannis or little wooden shuttles of different colors were used for a single weft line of the fabric. Upto 50 colors could be worked into one shawl-the most popular colors being zard (yellow), sufed (white), mushki (black), ferozi (turquoise), ingari (green), uda (purple), gulnar (crimson) and kirmiz (scarlet). Months of hard work went into the preparation for each Jamawar, with not more than an inch being added per day in a 48-inch width of material.
Colorful and textured embroidery decorating Pashmina and wool shawls, Aari is a technique popularized by Kashmiri artisans. The work involves a curved awl or hook known as “aari”, which is used to pierce the fabric and adorn it with rich patterns. A part of everyday and special occasions, Aari shawls are a traditional Indian winter wear loved all over the globe. Let us take a look at the history, technique, and styles of Aari shawls with this blog. We will end with a list of ways in which you can include Aari shawls in your winter style.
This picture of the Prime Minister of India, Sri Narendra Modi lighting the Ram-Jyoti at his residence in New Delhi is a reason for joy for the devotees of Rama, who were eagerly awaiting the arrival of Ram Lala in Ayodhya. The “Ram-Jyoti” or Lamp of Lord Rama symbolizes the victory of devotion after many years and is a celebration of Deepawali, the festival of light in honor of Ayodhyapati Sri Rama. Beyond the brilliance of the Ram-Jyoti, what captures the eye in this image is the beautiful yellow shawl draped by the PM. Yellow in Indian culture is the color of devotion, sacredness, auspiciousness, and joy. Pitambara, the yellow garment is a favorite attire of Sri Vishnu, Rama, and Krishna. But the value of PM’s shawl not only lies in its meaningful color, but its identity. Worn by royals of India, exported and prized by elites of the world, this is the most classic and lux Kashmiri or Cashmere shawl, known as “Kani”.
“One can write the cultural history of India with a thread”. This statement could not be truer in the case of Kutchi shawls, woven with pride and skills in the Kutch region of Gujarat. A mix of cultures and techniques of different local communities of Rajasthan and Gujarat, Kutchi shawls carry in the threads of their embroidery, the history of more than 600 years!
Winters and shawls are synonyms, especially in India, where the warmth and comfort of woolen, silk, and cotton shawls are appreciated more than ever to fight the chilly weather. Even though today, shawls are generally worn by women, historically and fashionably speaking, shawls have been a staple part of men’s wardrobe. Appreciated and donned by kings, elites, and Nawabs, shawls are a symbol of royalty and ease when it comes to men’s ethnic fashion. For a change, we will take a look at the history of shawls for men, and the best ways to include shawls in your winter fashion this season. Let us start!
Pashmina cashmere is spun using the downy undercoat of the Himalayan Mountain goat. These goats famously live at a high altitude of above 15,000 ft. The colder climate of the Himalayan Mountain range means that the quality of the wool is considerably higher. The Chyangra goat is the source of the cashmere for pashmina shawls. For generations, Indian and Nepalese women have been passing down pashmina shawls as part of their daughter’s dowry. This personal connection and idea of a pashmina shawl as a sign of affection dates back to their origin. The artisan behind making pashmina garments and items is believed to date back to 3000 B.C. It’s believed Caesar was a fan of pashmina fabrics.
These varieties in Pashmina shawls represent only a few of the most popular variants of woolen apparel. The painstaking process of making a Pashmina did not stop the weavers from welcoming the numerous inventions and new introductions in the design and technique of Pashmina. Makers also experimented according to the taste and preferences of the elite patrons of Pashmina, each of whom ended up adding a bit more to the colorful tapestry of Pashmina.