THE BUS TO MANDALAY Calcutta, second largest city in the British Empire, spread along the Ganges called Hooghly, at the top of the Bay of Bengal. Calcutta, big, western, modern, with public buildings, monuments, parks, gardens, hospitals, museums, University, courts of law, hotels, offices, shops, all of which might belong to a prosperous American city; and all backed by an Indian town of temples, mosques, bazaars and intricate courtyards and alleys that has somehow created itself despite the rectangular lines shown on the map. In the courts and alleys and bazaars many little bookstalls, where narrow- chested, near-sighted, anaemic young Indian students, in native dress, brood over piles of fly-blown Russian pamphlets.
Rich Calcutta, wide-open door to the traffic of the world and India, traffic of bullion, of jute, of cotton -of all that India and the world want out of each other's hands. Decorous, sophisticated Calcutta, where decorous and sophisticated people of all creeds, all colors and all costumes go to Government House Gar- den Parties, pleasantly to make their bows to Their Excellencies, and pleasantly to talk good English while they take their tea and ices and listen to the regimental band.
You cannot see the street from Government House Gardens, for the walls are high. But if you could, you would see it filled with traffic-motor traffic, mostly-limousines, touring cars, taxis and private ma- chines. And rolling along among them now and again, a sort of Fifth Avenue bus, bearing the big-lettered label, "Kali Ghat."
This bus, if you happen to notice it, proceeds along the Parkside past the Empire Theatre, the various clubs, St. Paul's Cathedral, past the Bishop's House, the General Hospital, the London Missionary Society's Institution, and presently comes to a stop in a rather congested quarter, which is its destination as advertised.
"Kali Ghat"-"place of Kali"-is the root-word of the name Calcutta. Kali is a Hindu goddess, wife of the great god Siva, whose attribute is destruction and whose thirst is for blood and death-sacrifice. Her Spiritual domination of the world began about five thou- sand years ago, and should last nearly four hundred and thirty-two thousand years to come.
Kali has thousands of temples in India, great and small. This of Calcutta is the private property of a family of Brahmans who have owned it for some three centuries. A round hundreds of these, "all sons of one father," share its possession today. And one of the hundred obligingly led me, with a Brahman friend, through the precincts. Let him be called Mr. Haldar, for that is the family's name.
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