Foreword Vidyanam Nidanam Kast-Kashi is the seat of learning-this phrase summarizes Varanasi's great importance as a centre for education of both Hindu and Buddhist learning from the 6 century CE onwards. Hiuen Tsang in the 7 Century CE found 1,500 monk-pupils studying at the monasteries of Sarnath (eight km from Kashi), the place where Buddha (583-463 B CE) preached his first sermon after enlightenment. Adi Shankara (780-810 CE), the founder of the Advaita school of philosophical thought, came to Kashi as well. All the major Hindu maths have had their centres here. Varanasi has two universities that keep alive traditional and modern knowledge.

Varanasi is also among the holiest of pilgrimage cities in India. Its sanctity is established through many sacred texts, from the Vedas to the Puranas. It's spiritual importance, its festivals and customs, its music and the arts, and its profound traditions of knowledge have prospered for centuries. Their role in elevating this ancient city to the status of a sacred city is phenomenal.

It is thus vital to retain the essence of such significant cities as Varanasi by preserving their learning and oral traditions. The safeguarding of this intangible culture is extremely crucial in retaining this heritage for the coming generations. It is important to also recognize the economic relevance of cultural activities as a means of livelihood. As a HRIDAY city, Varanasi should promote local culture and associated activities but also takes steps to guard against rampant overuse related to pilgrim tourism.

We hope that this documentation will help in bringing us closer to an under- standing of what wealth of intangible culture Varanasi possesses, and where we could all work together to revive some of the disappearing elements, and sustain those under threat.

I commend the efforts of Nerupama Y. Modwel, Principal Director, Intangible Cultural Heritage Division, and her team for bringing out this timely study.

Preface Varanasi is too intricate in its mythical, spiritual, and philosophical moorings, too layered in its ancient beginnings, too entrenched in its consecrated status, past and present, to lend itself to an easy study and documentation. In the words of one of our interviewees, "It is extremely tough to study this city. The more I tried, the more got entangled in its complexities. But my interest kept on increasing, and I am still studying this city. Perhaps our situation is a bit like that! How much or how little can one learn about such a complex city in two years? Varanasi is a city of continuity and a city of contrasts. It is an amazing representation of our civilization, with a past pre-dating antiquity, an ever-living present, and a hopefully continuing future-of traditions, of seeking knowledge, and with a deep spiritual significance for all who visit. This is perhaps why it is also known as the eternal city of light, where salvation is sought to be attained but not always guaranteed, where fear of death is sought to be conquered, and where self-realization is the ultimate goal. "Jahan marna bhi mangal maana jaaye woh Kashi hai. Jo prakash dene wali Kashi hai, jo moksh dene wali Kashi hai.

Much has been said and written about Varanasi, from ancient travelers to present day visitors, from artists, writers, poets to researchers and scholars. Our aim here is not to repeat that information or those insights but to put a context to some of it with a study of present day Varanasi.

We talked to as many Varanasi residents and visitors as possible-scholars, poets, musicians, artists, craftspeople, weavers, shopkeepers, pujaris, shastris, hoteliers, housewives, boatmen, pilgrims and others-in order to understand from them what they perceive their heritage and cultural legacy to be. We have tried to encapsulate what they value of this legacy and what they feel could, should be done to preserve it. Our aim has also been to document the intangible and material culture of the city, as it exists and is practiced today. As another interviewee pointed out, "Banaras is not heritage (past perfect) to me; it is lineage (present continuous). It is an art of living "Banaras ke chaar swarup hai-Bhakt Kashi, Mukt Kashi, Sapt Kashi, Gupt Kashi mein padhne se zyada behtar hai, Kashi ko padhna.

Our attempt has been to comprehend what makes a city like Varanasi its distinctive, inspirational self for its residents and visitors. Is it its characteristic heritage that is still visible in numerous built or indefinable forms, or its spiritual and civilizational depth? One must consider that essentially it is also the people and the intangible elements of their culture that lie at the heart and soul of a city.

Introduction With the mapping and documentation of the intangible cultural heritage of Varanasi, this project aims to unravel the complex and contoured elements of city life, both historic and contemporary, attaching as much value to the ancient and the authentic, as to the transitions and transformations witnessed over time. Varanasi being an ancient city has been studied and documented countless times over the years. There have been innumerable endeavors to unearth the sacred, social, mystical, mythological, architectural, tangible and intangible roots of the city. In a city where forms of existence, death, celebrations and mourning impart it a distinctive character, the concepts of heritage and culture demand an idiosyncratically designed outlook and interaction with the city.

The heavy presence of and interlink ages between contemporary and ancient cultures, innately absorbed or borrowed since time immemorial, lends an intricately layered character to Varanasi. The city represents a lush concoction of everything in abundance, from the diverse cultures, their performance and associated materials, to the practicing communities engaged in this.

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