Indian sarees for centuries have been a source of inspiration for fashion designers and artists, who have looked at this flowing ancient garment time and again to find refreshing ideas of design, fit, and motif. Silk and cotton drapes of India have been cherished the world over for their regal and refined look.
However, the regional drapes, and sarees from different states of India, originating in the local tradition of these regions are equally enchanting. Blending comfort and timeless elegance, these regional drapes today have a global appeal, thanks to the effortless feminine grace they offer.
This blog takes a look at a few historic regional drapes, and will answer a few questions to help you understand what makes them a gem in the ever-changing modern world of style.
The craft of Bomkai can be traced back to the 8th century CE and remains an integral part of Odisha’s cultural life. The saree was earlier woven for everyday use by the local populace but today, thanks to its intricate and exotic patterns and comfortable feel, Bomkai has become a loved drape for the modern wearer. Rooted in the festive culture and religious tradition of Odisha, Bomkai is a saree worthy of being prized in any wardrobe.
A Bomkai saree takes over several weeks to complete. The artisans use pit loom and traditional methods, with extra weft in weaving, creating ornate patterns on the border and pallu of the saree. The patterns comprise fish, conch, flowers, shells, lotuses, and other symbols inspired by the natural and cultural context of Odisha.
Bomkai or Sonepuri sarees are crafted in Odisha have an intricate make, and are identified by the regional motifs on the border and pallu. Sambalpuri sarees are also a drape of Odisha, created using the technique of Ikat weave, where threads are dyed before weaving starts.
Traditionally, cotton was the preferred material for Bomkai sarees, as it offers comfort and ease, preferred in daily wear. Silk is also used in the making of these drapes, giving them a festive appeal.
Bandhani (bandh- to tie) or Bandhej sarees of Rajasthan and Gujarat are treasured traditional wear from the West of India. Created by local women using a timeless technique of coloring the fabric in various hues by tying small portions of the clothes, resulting in a beautiful pattern, these sarees have simple patterns and a stunning color palette.
The art of Bandhani goes back several centuries, rooted in the Khatri community of Gujarat, who still cherish this textile as a part of their culture. Bandhani sarees are the top choice of the women of this region for festive days and auspicious occasions, including marriage, when the bride receives and drapes a Bandhani odhani (dupatta) with her trousseau.
A Bandhani textile usually made with cotton or silk requires a lot of patience and precision. The fabric is first washed and bleached and then small portions of the cloth are tied with threads. The fabric is then put in dye and for each color, the process is repeated. Once the dying is done, the threads are untied, and awe-inspiring patterns are seen on the fabric.
Pure silk and pure magic, Baluchari sarees come from West Bengal, originating in the small village of Baluchar, Murshidabad. Patronized by the Nawabas and elites, these sarees have a royal appeal, which also comes from their silk fabric and intricate Zari work. The motifs of these sarees include intricate and stylized depictions of episodes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata, making them wearable pieces of art.
The sarees are mentioned in sources of the 18th century but have a longer history. Loved by the Mughals, Bengal Nawab, and rich sections of the society, the saree went through a decline with the arrival of the British, but soon landed on its feet and has not looked back since.
Baluchari sarees are created on the jacquard loom, where ornate and rich patterns over large spaces are created. The process of weaving is immensely time-consuming and a single saree takes several months to complete. Mythological scenes, nature-inspired motifs, and architectural elements are seen on these drapes, with each motif contrasting with the lovely silk background.
Both Baluchari and Swarnachari sarees belong to West Bengal, and the difference between them is their material. While Baluchari sarees use beautiful silk threads in the weave, Swarnachari sarees go a step further and include gold and silver threads in their make.
An opulent weave from West Bengal, Baluchari sarees are renowned for the motifs they use- episodes of Ramayana and Mahabharata and sculptures of temples, creating culturally enriched weaves that are luxurious and artistic.
Phulkari literally means floral garden, a cue to the floral embroidery that covers the fabric of these ensembles from Punjab. Though more traditionally seen on Odhani and dupattas worn by young women and brides, Phulkari on sarees looks enchanting.
Popularized by women of Punjab who embroider their own drapes and veils for auspicious occasions, Phulkari uses colorful threads that are needled into the entire fabric field, creating blooming gardens on the saree.
The most cherished Phulkari work is seen on the wedding trousseau of the bride, who wears the veil given to her by the elder women of her family, as their blessing and a symbol of her happiness.
Like many regional drapes, Phulkari began as a family-based craft, done by the women during their spare time, embroidering their dupatta and saree with colorful threads to create a garden-like spread. Though modern designers produce Phulkari attires, the best work still comes from the homes and hands of Punjabi women.
Beginning as a way of stitching quilts and simple drapes with a running, thick stitch, Kantha belongs to West Bengal and Bangladesh. Done by women of the household, Kantha has slowly developed into a craft of beautifying delicate cotton sarees with the running stitch pattern, that gives them a beautiful and simple appeal.
The motifs popular in Kantha come from the local legends and cultural life of the Eastern region of India, making each saree a remembrance of history and heritage. Each stitch is carefully done with hand in a Kantha drape, due to which the sarees are lovely and precious, with a minimal feel that is comfy for all seasons.
The running stitch is the basic type of stitch in Kantha, but other variations such as darning, satin, and loop stitches are also used sometimes by the artisans to give the drapes a stylish feel.
Using old clothes, quilts, and sarees and decorating them with appealing embroidery, Kantha truly embodies the spirit of sustainable fashion. Revamping used articles of clothing, Kantha is a marvelous technique, creating green fashion long before the term became popular.
Antheraea assamensis silkworm, which is found only in Assam is the source of silk yarns for Muga silk sarees and drapes with a subtle shine that is very modern in its appeal. Muga silk sarees go back to the early periods in history when the drapes were valued as a symbol of luxury and regalia.
Muga silk has a natural golden luster, which is pleasing to behold and not too tacky, making it an ideal formal and festive wear choice. Traditional motifs include floral patterns, birds, and animals and subtle colors are popular. The sarees are crafted on handloom and have a quality of soft, feathery feel which only enhances with every wash, making these sarees a timeless addition to any wardrobe.
The process of weaving a Muga silk saree is intensive in labor and requires skills. It takes several weeks to a few months to craft a beautiful Muga silk saree.
Yes. The rearing of silkworms for Muga silk involves traditional methods that ensure that the species is preserved while the artisans receive the best quality silk yarn, making this silk an eco-friendly choice.
Yes. The Muga silk fabric can be dyed. However, the beautiful natural golden color and texture of this fabric are its characteristic features and are prized by lovers of traditional wear, who prefer to have the original color in their sarees.
From North to South and East to West, Indian regional fashion is basic, effortless, and beautiful, making it a perfect pick when it comes to modern wardrobes. The sarees listed here and many more are pieces of cultural heritage, crafted by the people and infused with their beliefs and visions.
Decorated with exotic motifs, these regional drapes are often repurposed and reused for decades in homes, making them a part of conscious and green fashion. With the ever-transforming taste of wearers, these regional drapes with their elementary make have something familiar and timeless about them, and use breathable material, which has earned them a reputation for being chic and comfortable.
Exotic India Art has collected a stylish treasure of Indian sarees from different states, each telling the tale of culture and fashion. Visit the website today, and pick classic Indian sarees that never go out of fashion.
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