Silk and festivity are virtually synonymous when it comes to traditional Indian fashion. Loved by the royals, both men and women, silk with its smooth feel, shimmering look and intricate embellishment speaks for the luxurious persona of the wearer, making it a classic choice when it comes to celebrations and important occasions even in modern times. Every state in India has its own way of crafting silk ensembles, sarees being the most cherished and popular one of all.
From the Banarasi of northern India to Kanjivaram of the South, silk drapes are something that is beyond mere fashion. They are blessings of the elders for the young bride, they are an emotional heirloom between mother and daughter and they are a gem in the collection of a connoisseur-collector. There is something timeless and trendy about every silk saree.
An ode to their beauty and charm, this blog will talk about three popular silk sarees- Banarasi, Kanjivaram, and Paithani. We will take a look at the history and significance of these sarees, their weaving process, and things to do to maintain and appreciate them for a long time. So let us begin!
Banarasi sarees are a world-famous drape, a symbol of wealth and luxury and a dream of every Indian bride. Made with pure silk and adorned with classic art-inspired motifs, each Banarasi saree is a canvas preserving the culture of Ganga Valley.
Banarasi sarees are renowned for the use of pure silk and characteristic and historic motifs are taken from Mughal art and architecture. The use of pure gold and silk threads makes these sarees rich and ornate and allows the wearer to stand out.
The material, design, weaving techniques, and classic border and pallus are the defining features of any Banarasi. The high-quality silk, intricate floral and naturalistic motifs, brocade weave that includes gold and silver and exquisite heavy border and endpiece are what make a Banarasi an unparalleled weave.
There are many types of Banarasi, differentiated on the basis of their fabric and design-
🌀 Katan or Pure silk Banarasi
🌀 Tanchoi Sarees, where extra weft threads including gold and silver Zari are used in weave
🌀 Organza or Kora Silk saree
🌀 Shattir Banarasi sarees, a blend of cotton and silk
A Banarasi saree is a prized possession and maintaining it properly is the key to enjoying its silken embrace for years. Always store your Banarasi in a cool and dry place, wrapped in a soft cloth and a separate saree bag. Do not fold the saree repeatedly along the same creases and refold it regularly. Use only dry cleaning. Ensure that the saree is regularly taken out to prevent moisture build-up.
A Banarasi saree is a drape woven only in Varanasi or Banaras, while brocade is a technique of weaving, used in Banarasi sarees but also in other attires. Banarasi saree is mostly made from silk, while brocade can be used in other fabrics as well.
The quality of silk, use of pure gold and silver which is difficult to obtain, labor-intensive work done by artisans who have been trained in weaving for generations, and the amount of time each Banarasi saree takes (several months), to make these sarees an expensive article.
Kanjivaram or Kanchipuram, is a drape rooted in this historically rich town of Kanchi, an ancient city that ruled the world with its culture and political might. Surrounded by monumental shrines all around, the makers of Kanjivaram sarees use motifs inspired by temple walls and religious traditions, making these drapes divine.
Originating in the capital city of the valourous Pallava kings, Kanjivaram sarees are the beloved attire for royals and elites. Since early medieval India, silk weavers in this region have been crafting drapes liked by national and international consumers. The Devangas and Saligars are two prominent weaving groups, who are behind the magical weave of Kanjivaram.
There is no difference between the two, both are only variants of the same town, located in Tamil Nadu, the center of this weaving craft. Kanchipuram (that which belongs to the Puram or city of Kanchi) is the original name, while Kanjivaram is a mispronunciation which has gotten popular.
Belonging to Tamil Nadu, Kanjivaram sarees come from the town of Tamil Nadu and are a type of pure silk drapes. They are one of the most luxuriant silk sarees from India, while there are many other varieties of silk sarees as well such as Banarasi, Paithani, Upadda, Baluchari etc.
Kanjivaram sarees are an example of intricate weaving and devoted focus of Indian artisans. These sarees are made from pure silk of Mulberry silkworms and feature motifs inspired by South Indian temples such as Gopurams, peacocks, lamps, etc. They have rich colors and use pure gold in their embellishments, making them ornate and festive drapes that are chosen by many Tamil women for festivals and wedding functions.
Much like the Banarasis, Kanjivaram sarees are heirlooms, which remain in the family for generations. To take care of these beautiful sarees, always place them in a Muslin cloth or bag in a clean, cool, and dry area. Use dry cleaning for the saree and take it out periodically. Avoid using naphthalene balls and instead opt for neem leaves which keep the insects out naturally.
Belonging to Paithan, a town near Aurangabad, Paithani sarees are pure silk drapes of Maharashtra, a traditional weave and an almost must-have part of a bride’s wardrobe. With rich colors and the classic Mayura or peacock on the pallu, the Paithani saree was prized by the Marathi queens, who patronized the weavers and made the drape into a regal and refined attire.
Mayura, the peacock, found in abundance in the environs of Aurangabad is the most popular and distinctive motif in Paithani sarees. Created using colorful threads, the peacock motif is often paired with a parrot, flower pot, jasmine flowers, and creepers.
Dhoop chaanv or light and shadow is a special effect visible in the fabric of Paithani, resulting from the use of multiple color pure silk threads in warp and weft, causing an iridescent glow in the field of the saree.
A simple way of identifying a Paithani is by checking the reverse side of the fabric. The intricate weaving technique of this saree ensures that the same pattern is seen with equal beauty on both sides. Stylized and ornate peacock motifs are a popular part of the decoration of Paithani. The distinctive border and pallu of the saree, with rich Zari work and vibrant colors are a feature of original, traditional Paithani sarees.
Indian silk sarees for centuries have ruled the world of fashion, especially when it comes to festive wear. These three drapes represent the best of Indian drapes, however this is not all. Traditional silk sarees come from all over the country, made by trained weavers who have guarded the art of weaving for generations.
Having a pure silk saree in your wardrobe is a dream for many lovers of Indian fashion. But to get an authentic silk drape made in India is a challenge, especially as one browse through the online silk saree collections.
Exotic India Art has shortened the distance between the loom of the weavers and your wardrobe with its rich collection of pure silk sarees from all over the country. Each piece of this curated selection is a jewel, waiting for the right connoisseur.
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