The Diplomatic Power of Sarees and Indian Men's Ethnic Wear : Insights from the G20 Summit 2023

Article of the Month - Sep 2023

This article by Chaitali Basu

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"What you wear is how you present yourself to the world, especially today when human contacts go so quickly. Fashion is an instant language."

—Miuccia Prada (Head designer of Prada and the founder of its subsidiary Miu Miu. NIA, 2016).


Diplomatic approaches are often influenced by fashion or attire. When a country organizes a major state meeting, diplomatic guests tend to dress in the host country's traditional clothes to give a sense of respect.

As previously said, what you wear, is the first thing that makes an impression; it smoothens the path ahead for more essential conversations. The host country's leaders and diplomats dress in native clothes to demonstrate pride and confidence in their own culture, giving them an advantage during difficult talks.

In soft politics, this is known as Fashion Diplomacy, and the ultimate goal is to impress the opponent or the general public with one's wardrobe. There have been several cases of crucial judgments being impacted by the simple choice of clothing.

Fashion diplomacy evolved to become one of the most effective weapons for making an influence, preferably a favorable one. When the Duchess of Cambridge, Kate Middleton, visited India in 2016, her clothing, a mix of Western and Indian patterns, caused her designer Anita Dogre's website to break down owing to high demand.

Her outfit had such an impact that it dominated media channel conversations for weeks. Kate made an impression with her attire, assisting the British Monarchy in keeping the tables turned.


At the current G20 Summit, Indian traditional clothing, whether sarees or men's ethnic wear, has been addressed through Fashion Diplomacy. It may also be described as fusing fashion and heritage and having a significant effect on global forums such as the G20 Summit in 2023.

Its effect may be observed in a variety of areas. This phenomenon has been well-recorded by several periodicals and digital media channels. There are several articles and websites that go into great depth about these traditional outfits.

This blog will also explore the aspects of treating cultural pride diplomatically and reaping benefits from it is a significant accomplishment.

The Rise of Saree Diplomacy:

 Saree Diplomacy, a phrase invented and analyzed by Politics and Diplomacy critics, bears evidence of Cultural Diplomacy and Power Dressing under Fashion Diplomacy. It initially came to light during Sushma Swaraj's visit to Bangladesh as Minister of External Affairs in 2014.

The print and internet media went crazy over the leaders of India and Bangladesh's clever use of the Saree as both a power dressing and diplomatic gifting tool.


Long before then, many notable ladies in India wore this nine-yard drape to create an impression. Smt. Indira Gandhi, India's first female Prime Minister, was recognized for the powerful image she cultivated via her political acumen and, of course, her gorgeous Cotton and Silk Sarees.

It was discovered that significant Indian women favored sarees for major events because it portrayed them as culturally rooted ladies who did not bow down to the increasing Westernization.


In recent years, the saree has grown as a fashion gem and has come to be associated with grace, elegance, and variety.

President Droupadi Murmu's choice of a beige Paithani Saree with a turquoise border and bright floral designs for the G20 Summit in 2023 delivered a powerful statement. Her outfit highlighted not just the beauty of the Saree but also India's cultural heritage.

Similarly, Bangladesh Prime Minister Sheikh Hasina's lilac Dhakai Jamdani saree emphasized the two countries' cross-cultural linkages. The Jamdani’s 2013 designation as a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity emphasizes its importance in global diplomacy.


In another case, World Bank President Ajay Banga's wife, Ritu, wore a light grey Chanderi Saree, demonstrating the timeless attractiveness of traditional Indian fabrics.


Mauritius Prime Minister Kobita, Pravind Kumar Jugnauth's wife, looked stunning in a light pink Chikankari Saree with a sparkling deep blue top.

The Chanderi Silk Saree, known for its lightweight and gauzy feel, is from the Madhya Pradesh town of Chanderi. Its delicate richness is sometimes accentuated with silver or gold borders, making it easily beautiful and swishy in pastel tones.

Unsurprisingly, every Indian female politician and government person assigned to greet global leaders at the Palam airfield or attend any G20 activities donned a sari.

Anupriya Patel, the Minister of Commerce and Industry, donned a blue and white Ikat, while Bharti Singh, the wife of former Chief of Army Staff General VK Singh, who received President Biden, wore a mustard Kanjeevaram.


Despite several saree sightings, fashion experts named Yuko Kishida, wife of Japan's Prime Minister Fumio Kishida, the absolute show stealer in a Banarasi saree decorated with gold accents and a pink satin blouse.

Banarasi sarees, which originated in Varanasi's alleyways, have a history connected with the Mughal era and include zari embroidery and Mughal-inspired motifs.

Though the saree's patterns, fabric, and designs changed every day of the three-day summit, the draping manner remained consistent. The current saree draping style known as the Nivi Draping Style was followed.

Gyanodanandini (wife of Satyendranath Tagore, Rabindranath Tagore's elder brother) is credited with discovering this style, with some influence from the Parsi style acquired during her husband's posting in Bombay.

Men of G20 Embrace Ethnic Elegance:

Not only did the ladies steal the show during the G20 Summit; but the males of the G20 also made an impressive statement with their choice of Indian cultural dress.


Prime Minister Narendra Modi donned a striking new outfit for the occasion. He wore a white Kurta Paijama for the first day and changed from his previous black bandhgala jacket to a V-neck striped jacket, oozing a combination of refinement and current style that reflected his versatility on the world stage.

The apparel was exquisite and reinforced the Prime Minister's fashion selections of comfortable clothes. The outfit was a wise decision that emanated serenity and reflected the idea of "Vasudhaiva Kutumbakam," which translates as "One Earth, One Family, One Future."

Conclusion:

This revival of traditional Indian dress in diplomatic circles is not a new phenomenon. It is based on a long tradition of cultural diplomacy practiced by Indian leaders and dignitaries for decades.

Smt. Indira Gandhi and Pandit Jawaharlal Nehru frequently chose traditional attires to confirm power dressing, successfully reflecting India's rich past on the world stage.

The influence of traditional Indian attire whether it is a Saree or men's ethnic wear on international diplomacy cannot be ignored. The G20 Summit of 2023 is and will remain a witness to such a phenomenon.

These clothes hold a status much beyond the parameters of fashion, they are the bearers of cultural history, identity, and diplomacy.

The Leaders and their partners donned traditional Indian attire to send a meaningful message of unity, respect, and dedication to international cooperation through their dress and strengthened the theme of

"One Earth, One Family, One Future." 
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